If water is coming through a ceiling or wall, or you can hear it running behind a surface, close the main shutoff and keep everyone away from wet areas near lights or outlets. Then call our 24/7 line at (855) 575-2890 and we will plan the quickest way to find the source.
Leak detection is the process of locating a water leak without tearing open every wall, floor or yard to look for it. It combines a meter check, pressure testing and listening or imaging tools, so repairs can be limited to the spot that is actually failing.
We take leak calls at night and on weekends, because a pipe that is leaking under pressure does not slow down after five o'clock.
Water is already coming through: what to do now
Shut off the main valve, then open one faucet at the lowest level of the house to drain pressure from the pipes. This stops a pressurized leak from adding to the damage while you wait for a plumber.
Stay clear of any ceiling that is bulging or dripping heavily. Wet drywall is heavy and can drop without warning. Catch the drip with a bucket and move electronics out of the way. If water is near outlets or a light fixture, stay out of the room and tell us on the call.
Take photos of the wet area now. Insurers often ask for them.
From a wet ceiling or a high bill to a leak you can find
Most people do not call about a leak. They call about a stain on the ceiling, a bill that doubled, weak pressure at the shower or a floor that feels warm underfoot. Each one is a symptom, and the same pipe can produce several of them.
Detection connects the symptom to a location. A bill spike points to a meter test. A ceiling stain points to a supply or drain line above it. Low pressure on its own can mean a buried line leak outside the house, a failing valve, or old pipe, which we also discuss on our service line page.
How leaks get located
The method depends on the pipe, the access and what you are seeing. We name the method before we use it.
Pressure testing
A section of pipe is isolated and held under pressure. If the gauge drops, that section is leaking.
Acoustic listening
Sensitive microphones and ground sensors pick up the hiss of escaping water through floors, walls or soil, so the sound can be pinpointed.
Thermal imaging
A thermal camera shows temperature differences. It works well for hot water lines in a slab and for damp spots in a wall.
Tracer gas
A harmless gas mix is added to an emptied line, and a sensor finds where it escapes. It suits lines that are hard to listen to.
Camera inspection
A small camera on a cable looks inside drain pipes and, with access, areas where a pipe cannot be seen. Not every leak is within reach of one.
Close the main and call. A plumber is on the line at any hour.
Which symptom points to which test
This table shows how we usually match what you see to a first step. The final method depends on what the pipes and the building allow.
| What you notice | Likely area | First step |
|---|---|---|
| Meter turns with everything off | Anywhere past the meter | Isolate the line and pressure test |
| Warm spot on a floor | Hot water line under a slab | Thermal scan and listening |
| Stain on a ceiling | Supply or drain line above | Moisture mapping, then open a small access |
| Soggy ground in the yard | Buried line or irrigation | Shut off and listen along the route |
| Low pressure at all taps | Service line or main valve | Check pressure, then test the service line |
Each symptom can have more than one cause, so we confirm with testing before recommending a repair.
Run the meter test yourself
A water meter is the quickest way to tell whether you have a leak at all. It takes about half an hour and needs nothing but your eyes.
Turn everything off
Close all faucets, stop the dishwasher and washer, and shut off the ice maker and any irrigation. Make sure no one flushes.
Read the meter
Lift the lid on the meter pit or look at the meter inside. Note the reading and watch the small low-flow indicator, often a triangle or a tiny wheel. If it spins, water is moving.
Wait and read again
Leave the water off for thirty to sixty minutes, then read it again. A changed reading means a leak somewhere beyond the meter.
Close the house main
If the reading keeps moving, shut the main inside the house. If it now stops, the leak is inside the building. If it keeps going, it is on the line between the meter and the house.
City meter versus your own line
In Sidney the City handles the water main out to the meter pit. The property owner is responsible for the service line from the meter pit or curb stop valve into the building, plus everything inside. A leak on your side is yours to repair, even if the meter is in a pit that belongs to the City.
If your bill jumped but the meter test shows nothing, the cause may be a reading or billing issue. Ask the City of Sidney utility billing office whether they will review the account, and have your account number and recent readings ready. Do not assume an adjustment is available until the office confirms it.
Slab leaks and warm floor spots
A slab leak is a break in a pipe beneath a concrete floor. Signs include a warm spot on the floor, the sound of running water when nothing is on, a bill that keeps climbing, and dampness along a foundation wall.
This only applies to homes built on a slab. Many Sidney houses have basements or crawlspaces instead, so we ask what the foundation is when you call. If you do have a slab, shut off the water and call. We usually confirm the line with a pressure test and a thermal or acoustic scan before we propose a plan, which could be a repair through the floor or a reroute of the line overhead.
When pipes keep failing in several places, repiping may be the better plan, and a split main run is a burst pipe repair job. We also take leak calls in nearby towns such as Piqua, and the same meter test applies there.
Ceiling and wall leaks
Water on a ceiling rarely starts where the stain appears. It runs along a joist or pipe before it drips, so the stain can be several feet from the source. A bathroom, a supply line or a roof leak above may all be involved.
We ask which fixtures sit above the stain and whether the leak comes and goes. A leak that shows only after a shower or the washer cycle points to a drain line. A constant one points to a supply line. A moisture meter and small inspection openings let us confirm the source before cutting a larger hole.
Leaks under the house, in the crawlspace or above a basement
Pipes in a crawlspace or in the joists above a basement ceiling are easier to inspect than pipes under concrete. Look for drips on the pipe, wet insulation and stains on the underside of the subfloor.
Water in these spaces may also be groundwater or a drain problem, not a supply leak. Check whether the dampness follows rain, then shut off the main and see if it stops. If it persists, tell us on the call. Other causes, such as foundation seepage, may call for basement waterproofing rather than a pipe repair.
Buried and underground line leaks
A leak in a buried line may show as a wet patch, a sunken area, a meter that runs with the house off or a sudden drop in pressure. In Sidney the owner's line begins at the meter pit or curb stop, so a leak anywhere between there and the house is on the property side. Our water service line repair page covers the repair options in detail.
Before anyone digs, Ohio law requires a call to Ohio811 at 811 or 800-362-2764. Allow at least 2 working days for utilities to mark their lines. Do not start a trench before the marks are in.
Irrigation and sprinkler leaks
A sprinkler system is a network of plastic pipe and valves buried at shallow depth, and it can leak long before a lawn shows it. Signs include a soggy patch that stays wet, a zone that sputters or loses pressure, a valve box full of water and a meter that moves when the controller is off.
To check, turn off the system at its shutoff and rerun the meter test. If the meter stops, the sprinkler is the source. Broken heads, cracked fittings and sticking valves are common causes.
Pool, spa, yard and meter-box leaks
Pool and spa leaks are often tracked by marking the water level and watching the loss over a day or two. Plumbing lines to a pool can be pressure tested like any other pipe.
A water-filled meter box or a wet spot around a yard hydrant is worth reporting quickly. If the water is on the City side of the meter, call the City utility. If it is on your side, shut off the main and call us.
What changes the cost of finding a leak
The search depends on the building, so you get a clear price before work starts, and we separate the cost of finding the leak from the cost of repairing it.
Home insurance often treats a sudden pipe burst differently from slow, long-term seepage, and some policies exclude the cost of locating the leak. Ask your insurer what applies and keep your photos and bills.
Common questions
Do you handle leak detection emergencies at night or on weekends in Sidney?
Yes. Our line is open 24/7 and we take leak calls at night, on weekends and on holidays. We ask a few questions, tell you what to shut off while you wait, and book the soonest appointment.
How can I tell if my water bill is high because of a leak?
Run the meter test: turn off everything that uses water, read the meter, wait about half an hour, and read it again. If the reading moves or the low-flow indicator spins, a leak is likely. If nothing moves, ask the City of Sidney utility billing office about the bill.
Who pays for a leak between the meter and my house?
In Sidney the property owner is responsible for the service line from the meter pit or curb stop into the building. The City handles the main out to the meter pit. We can explain which side your leak is on after testing.
Will you have to dig up my yard or floor to find a leak?
Often not at first. Pressure tests, listening and thermal imaging narrow the search so any opening is small and targeted. Digging or cutting comes after the location is confirmed.
What if my home is on a slab foundation?
Tell us when you call. A slab leak shows as a warm spot on the floor, running water sounds or a rising bill. We confirm with a pressure test and a scan before proposing a repair or a reroute.
Do I need to call 811 before a buried line repair?
Yes. Ohio requires notice before digging. Call 811 or 800-362-2764 at least 2 working days ahead so utilities can mark their lines, and do not start digging until the marks are in place.